We’re going through all the restaurants in Granary Square, because it’s only 25 minutes from our new flat and because they all do brunch. Was this an important consideration when househunting? I couldn’t say. Anyway, after our top notch experience at Caravan, Dishoom was next.
We had tried to go for brunch at Dishoom once before, in their Covent Garden branch. It didn’t happen. The night before, there had been wine, and then a bit more wine, and then a lot more wine. At 10am the next morning, Amy crawled into my room. I barely moved my face to talk to her.
“I don’t think I can stomach brunch,” Amy whispered. I mumblegroaned. We cancelled our reservation.
NOT SO ON THIS OCCASION. The King’s Cross Dishoom is only recently opened, and it’s as beautiful as its neighbours: laid out on two floors, with rustic ironwork banisters and pipes running across the ceilings. I hear what you’re saying – “If you love Granary Square so much, Hattie, why don’t you just marry it?” To which I reply – “I WOULD IF I COULD.”
We’ve had dinner in Dishoom before and it really is some of the best Indian food I’ve had. It’s so fresh and modern, and light – adjectives I wouldn’t normally apply to the cuisine. I’d been told, though, that their Brunch is really something special. The phrase “best bacon sandwich in London” had been bandied around. My expectations were high.
I ordered the sausage and egg naan, because despite what people told me about the bacon, I’m a sausage girl at heart (hey! I heard that!). A sausage and egg sandwich, done right, is a thing of real beauty (and done wrong, it’s still pretty great). Ladies and gentleman, Dishoom have got it right. Gloucester Old Spot pork sausage, egg yolks like liquid amber, an incredible tomato-chilli chutney, cream cheese and fresh coriander served between soft, chewy naan make this a sandwich you simply have to experience. I never realised how unsatisfying ordinary bread could be – but it dissolves far quicker than sausage. Not so with naan, which keeps you chewing until the end of each mouthful. The flavours are balanced in a way that only an Indian chef could. This is fusion at its best, a British classic made new.
I also ordered Bun Matka, soft almost Brioche-like bread that was only disappointing in comparison to the main event. There was plenty of butter. And to drink, we had chocolate chai – I would argue that this is the best drink you can buy in London, especially in the evening with a shot of bourbon.
What more to say about Dishoom? Go there. Go there now.
Oh, Granary Square. Is there anything I don’t love about you? You’re so big and undiscovered and you do your brunch so well. I want to run through your weird fountains with my arms outstretched like I’m in that scene in Bride and Prejudice (don’t tell me you don’t know what I’m talking about). It’s just that it’s been a bit cold up until this last week. Still! Summer is finally on it’s way! Granary Square, you don’t know what’s coming to you.
Anyway. Rolling back the clock about a month or so, it was still cold and Hattie and I were planning the most #Hamy day we could possibly imagine. (Side note: I can’t believe that #Hamy never caught on.)
It was our housewarming in the evening and we wanted to spend at least four hours getting ready, but that still left a lot of time between 9 and 3. So we headed for Dishoom, thankfully without the crippling hangovers of our previous attempt. Getting brunch *before* the wine starts flowing really is the way to go, as it turns out.
After it was over, we planned to get our eyebrows shaped, which was basically all we’d talked about since a heartfelt pact was made on New Year’s Eve. (And they looked great, just in case you were wondering.)
But you’re here for the brunch review, not our incredible eyebrows.
This particular branch of Dishoom really is amazing inside. Unlike its neighbours, it has added two extra floors to the warehouse space, so there are lots of interesting details to explore. I particularly enjoyed the ceiling fans, but that’s just me.
So I ordered the bacon and egg naan, and while I can’t say it’s the best in London (I haven’t tried them all), I’m not sure how you could do it better. The bacon is deliciously crispy with the perfect amount of charred edges (or “burnt bits”). The only problem was that the waitress asked how it was all going right as we both took massive bites and could only nod dumbly in response.
The chai hot chocolate really does have to be tried. It’s thick and creamy and spicy, and I would probably drink it every single day of winter if I could. The service was incredibly fast, so I also had time to order some mint tea which came in the prettiest blue and white china ever.
I’m not really sure what else there is to say – it’s fast service, it’s great value, it’s amazing food. You’ve got no excuse not to go.